There are days when visitors to this exquisite jewel box of a city outnumber locals two-to-one, and when getting from the station to St Mark’s square is a battle. But despite this, Venice never loses its capacity to enchant: stepping out of the station to be greeted by a glittering canal with the dome of San Simeon Piccolo beyond remains heart-stopping, whether you’re doing it for the first time or the 100th.
Even at peak visitor periods, the worst excesses can be avoided and you’re never more than a bridge away from secluded Venice with its quiet campi (squares), churches concealing luminous Madonnas, handsome Gothic palazzi – and bustling neighbourhood hangouts.
Because there’s more to Venice than peerless artistic riches from centuries past: it’s also a hive of contemporary activity. Beyond the alternating Art and Architecture Biennale shows which showcase all that’s cutting edge internationally, the city’s dwindling population works hard to keep contemporary Venice creative, productive and very vibrant.
For further inspiration, explore our guides to the city’s best hotels, restaurants, nightlife, shopping, attractions and free things to do.